Section size for young birds?

[PeteDerby]

Hi all. I’m being told by some that young bird losses are particularly high these days and that I should aim to start out with 30-odd youngsters or more. Whether that’s a commonly held view or not I don’t know, but it’s got me thinking about the layout for my new loft.

I was originally intending to have 5 x 6ft sections (Loft 8ft deep inc a 2ft corridor) - cocks / hens / YB + 2 sections for stock birds so I can split cocks and hens out of breeding system. I’m now wondering if I should have a bigger YB section for c30 birds?

I’ve scanned previous threads for the subject but couldn’t find anything specifically about loft sizes for young birds. Any thoughts?

Cheers

Pete

[PeteDerby]

Hi all. I’m being told by some that young bird losses are particularly high these days and that I should aim to start out with 30-odd youngsters or more. Whether that’s a commonly held view or not I don’t know, but it’s got me thinking about the layout for my new loft.

I was originally intending to have 5 x 6ft sections (Loft 8ft deep inc a 2ft corridor) - cocks / hens / YB + 2 sections for stock birds so I can split cocks and hens out of breeding system. I’m now wondering if I should have a bigger YB section for c30 birds?

I’ve scanned previous threads for the subject but couldn’t find anything specifically about loft sizes for young birds. Any thoughts?

Cheers

Pete

Gents, once again thank you so much for taking the time to share your thoughts. I’ve got the builder coming down on Tuesday to start the base for the loft, then up to see Matt at Ecco to finalise the loft design. Once the weather turns I’m stuffed for access where my loft is going so I’m having to make a lot of decisions in a relatively short space of time.

My design has gone from 3-section 18ft to 5 section 30ft, with me wondering whether I should put base down at 36ft just in case I need to make the YB section bigger.

Trev, I’m going for 5 (6?) 5 ft x 4ft Universal aluminium traps / aviaries on the front. For the difference in cost I might go for 10ft rather than 8ft depth, so get so more air space that way, plus use the corridors as suggested.

A lot of info to take in at once but, again, thanks everyone for your suggestions.

[PeteDerby]

Hi Pete,
Your 6x5 is probably adequate for 30 youngsters. By the time you get them to the races you will have lost 10% of them that were not good enough, everyone does. Then unless you are very lucky you will lose a few to predators, wire strikes etc. So your 6x5 section will be plenty.
If you feel they are a bit crowded, you could always open the door into the corridor so they have 8x5 to live in, and you could move them back into the section when you want to handle them,
It's only my opinion, but I prefer two smaller sections with a dividing wall and a doorway in between. That way if you get young cocks that are harassing other pigeons they can go and find a perch on the other side. The bully cannot be in two places at once. Or if the hens are getting no peace you can just shut the cocks in one side.
Best of luck with your project, looking forward to seeing it develop.

Hi Murray, again good thoughts. With the dividers in between the sections, not particularly for young birds, but are solid or dowelled dividers best? I’m particularly thinking air flow versus cocks seeing hens

[king]

Hi Pete,
Your 6x5 is probably adequate for 30 youngsters. By the time you get them to the races you will have lost 10% of them that were not good enough, everyone does. Then unless you are very lucky you will lose a few to predators, wire strikes etc. So your 6x5 section will be plenty.
If you feel they are a bit crowded, you could always open the door into the corridor so they have 8x5 to live in, and you could move them back into the section when you want to handle them,
It's only my opinion, but I prefer two smaller sections with a dividing wall and a doorway in between. That way if you get young cocks that are harassing other pigeons they can go and find a perch on the other side. The bully cannot be in two places at once. Or if the hens are getting no peace you can just shut the cocks in one side.
Best of luck with your project, looking forward to seeing it develop.

Hi Murray, again good thoughts. With the dividers in between the sections, not particularly for young birds, but are solid or dowelled dividers best? I’m particularly thinking air flow versus cocks seeing hens

Dividers in a YB loft are very useful. They can help keep the birds settled. Dowelled ones are best as they keep both the light and air flow. A smaller section is also easier to catch birds in. Solid dividers should be used if dividing cocks & hens.

[king]

What I've seen and learned over the years Pete is this

You can put an extra 10 YB into a YB Section - it's dead easy

It's always the case though that Mother Nature will step in and you'll lose the 10 one way or another pretty quickly

I had a 8ft YB Section with about 50 perches in there; but I never went more than 36 babies in there

If a pigeon can't find a perch it needs the option of another

I agree Mike my YB loft had 60 box perches in it. Never had more than 30 birds in it.

[king]

I agree Mike

I've screenshot that

Mike maybe it's a case of you agreeing with me

[PeteDerby]

Quickie gents. Concrete base went down this morning a laying some block on Monday for the loft to sit off it. I’ve got a stack of cement fake stone blocks left over from a job - they’re 17” long, 8” high and 4” deep. Stood on their side they look a bit thin - although there’s 4 runs of then running side to side so I assume stable enough. Laid flat they’re obvious more stable but give the loft 4” off the concrete base as opposed to 8.

Thoughts?

Cheers

Pete

[Buster121]

Quickie gents. Concrete base went down this morning a laying some block on Monday for the loft to sit off it. I’ve got a stack of cement fake stone blocks left over from a job - they’re 17” long, 8” high and 4” deep. Stood on their side they look a bit thin - although there’s 4 runs of then running side to side so I assume stable enough. Laid flat they’re obvious more stable but give the loft 4” off the concrete base as opposed to 8.

Thoughts?

Cheers

Pete

Personally mate I wouldn't bother having blocks at all if you have a concrete base, it will only give the rats somewhere to live !! I'd just put a damp proofing down then the floor straight on top of that.
If you are going to use blocks though I think I'd want it as high as possible as the rats/vermin will be less likely to live under there if its more open. It should still be stable enough once the floor is on it.

You can fix some plastic around the runners will give some protection from damp, as Trev says higher the better