So the question we all ask ourselves, is what we are looking for in a racing pigeon. This may not agree with some members, but its just pointers of looking for a good racing pigeon.
1. Genetic Potential
The most important criteria is the pigeons genetic potential. To determine the bird's potential it is not essential to handle it. It is a matter of looking at the pedigree. I always say "that you can't make a race horse out of a cow". It is already difficult enough to breed top pigeons, that is, those "Exceptions", those that shine regularly or weekly during the season. That can only be done by looking at the pedigree where one should find several generations of top racing pigeons. That is pigeons that can win or "leaders" as Piet de Weerd used to say.
You have to find them on both the sires and dams side for at least three and preferable five generations and not just on one loft but on several lofts. A good loft is not only one that performs well itself but is one that can turn other lofts into champions. That is where it begins. We call that genetic potential.
2. Charisma or Aura
This second point is one we find very important. What does the pigeon radiate? How does the pigeon carry itself, does its carriage say, OK here I am, now what? How does the pigeon present itself, does it look alert, does it show character? When you hold the racing pigeon: does it feel vital; does it want to get away? Does it look around? Does it look intelligent?
3. Balance
The third important point is when you hold a pigeon in your hand: How does it lay in the hand?
Good pigeons are always in balance. When you hold these pigeons, they lay flat in your hand, the back doesn't move to the right or the left. The back may be a little weaker but it is important that they are in proportion to each other. Hold that Ace pigeon - we have held so many- and you will notice instantly: when you hold a good pigeon in your hands there are no faults. Balance is a very important point.
4. Wing
In order for pigeons to perform well the wing is very important. The wing can be divided into three important components. When I look at a wing I automatically look at the front wing and then the back wing. There is a small bone where the wing comes out of the pigeon's body; you should be able to only push one finger between the body and that bone: if you can insert more than one finger, between the bone and the carcass, than the back wing is too large. The second thing I do is take the back wing in my hand. The back wing and feathers must be thick and soft. When you open the wing it should not feel like you are holding newspaper. With a back wing like that, the racing pigeon can never develop real power.
When opening the wing I believe it is extremely important that the last four flights have a swallow type shape and that they have enough ventilation between them. The best ventilated wings I have seen was about twenty five years ago at Westerhuis' in Gouda. Westerhuis selected heavily for the ventilation of the last four flights. These are the power flights they use to develop the speed with which the birds fly. This is extremely important!
5. Muscles
Naturally the muscles are of great importance to the pigeon. Of course, we can observe many differences in muscles. Muscles can be long or short. Pigeons with longer muscles are suited to racing the one-day distance or further, while racing pigeons with shorter muscles are more suited for flying the short distance races.
I feel the muscles along the breastbone with three fingers; I call it playing the piano, when the bird relaxes in your hand than the muscles should start to vibrate or tremble. They must have this quality. Pigeons that don't have it, have "dead" muscles and these pigeons are done after 50 to 100 km and come down like a rocket, not on your loft but somewhere in a field.
Whether the capacity of the muscles is for long distance or short distance flying, they must have the ability to use sufficient oxygen. Therefore, muscles are of great importance!
6. Organs
There are many people who have asked me: "I can't feel muscles, now what?" For these people I have another something else that they can use. If you can't feel muscles, than pick up a healthy pigeon. After a few minutes the pigeon will begin to relax, when it does look in its throat. The throat should lie deep within it so that you literally look over it. This hole should be as small as possible. If the pigeon has good muscles and a good throat you don't have to look any further, these are fantastic racing pigeons, they will usually be good performers. A good throat indicates small organs which lie deep within the pigeon. It means that the pigeon has as it were a very efficient motor, in other words we have a pigeon that uses very little energy on the way home.
We often visit other countries and have been on many lofts and I know that there are a number of knowledgeable fanciers and that they can pick out the good pigeons blindfolded as it were, by feeling the muscles and looking at the throat.
7. Feathers
The pigeon's feathers, when in the hand should feel very greasy. What do I mean? I mean that the feathers, when the bird is in your hands, should feel waxy, or oily.
One of the last examples, that made a real impression on me, is the mother of the "Harrie", she is a daughter of the "Kleine Dirk". Truly one of the best hens out of the "Kleine Dirk" that I have ever seen!
When I held that hen in my hands, it seemed like I felt wax all over the hen. As if there was a layer of oil on her. It's like when you look out of the windshield of your car after running your car through the car wash you can see water drops lying on the car, this also happens to a pigeon with fatty feathering. Oily feathers, those that have it are almost always good pigeons.
Through years of experience I can quickly feel, in a split second, whether a pigeon has fatty or dry feathering.
Feathering is therefore very important!
What are we looking for.
I think like most things with pigeons everyone has their own views and ideas on what they like in a pigeon. Some like big, some like small apple bodied, some medium sized. Some prefer different colours. Different birds like different systems. I still maintain that the only true way to evaluate racers is with the basket and breeders by breeding off them.
I personally don’t take much notice of pedigrees apart from my own. I bet most of the best pigeons are either from test pairs or chance matings. My best racers were bred from just a mixture of my own birds. I think my best cock that had 7 x 1st was a mixture of Van hee, Cattrysse, John Ellis, McDonald and probably a few more. I had bred all the parents and grandparents but didn’t have any pedigrees with any pigeons that I’ve had in. Even when I brought some from Massarella I brought batches of 6 youngsters from one family without pedigrees. Many of my best birds have been bred from birds that themselves weren’t particularly good at racing. I have also bred the odd good birds from the odd stray that has come in including a cock that had 4 x 1st whose sire was a stray. So for me a pedigree is just a piece of paper.
I like nice calm pigeons with a bit of character. Those that look for you when you enter the loft, fight you for their perch or box. Pigeons that are medium to big in size and fit well into the hand. They should feel nice and plump on the breast but not tight or heavy. Look healthy and bright with a bloom on the feathers. Don’t know why you would want to see greasy feathers. I have never had a good pigeon go sick. Even when I had PMV the best ones showed little sign of it and got over it quickly.
I personally don’t take much notice of pedigrees apart from my own. I bet most of the best pigeons are either from test pairs or chance matings. My best racers were bred from just a mixture of my own birds. I think my best cock that had 7 x 1st was a mixture of Van hee, Cattrysse, John Ellis, McDonald and probably a few more. I had bred all the parents and grandparents but didn’t have any pedigrees with any pigeons that I’ve had in. Even when I brought some from Massarella I brought batches of 6 youngsters from one family without pedigrees. Many of my best birds have been bred from birds that themselves weren’t particularly good at racing. I have also bred the odd good birds from the odd stray that has come in including a cock that had 4 x 1st whose sire was a stray. So for me a pedigree is just a piece of paper.
I like nice calm pigeons with a bit of character. Those that look for you when you enter the loft, fight you for their perch or box. Pigeons that are medium to big in size and fit well into the hand. They should feel nice and plump on the breast but not tight or heavy. Look healthy and bright with a bloom on the feathers. Don’t know why you would want to see greasy feathers. I have never had a good pigeon go sick. Even when I had PMV the best ones showed little sign of it and got over it quickly.
Back just enjoying club racing for the time being.
I would say this is more about selecting a bird, if you were looking to buy a bird.Andy wrote: ↑Thu Nov 02, 2023 10:08 pm I think like most things with pigeons everyone has their own views and ideas on what they like in a pigeon. Some like big, some like small apple bodied, some medium sized. Some prefer different colours. Different birds like different systems. I still maintain that the only true way to evaluate racers is with the basket and breeders by breeding off them.
I personally don’t take much notice of pedigrees apart from my own. I bet most of the best pigeons are either from test pairs or chance matings. My best racers were bred from just a mixture of my own birds. I think my best cock that had 7 x 1st was a mixture of Van hee, Cattrysse, John Ellis, McDonald and probably a few more. I had bred all the parents and grandparents but didn’t have any pedigrees with any pigeons that I’ve had in. Even when I brought some from Massarella I brought batches of 6 youngsters from one family without pedigrees. Many of my best birds have been bred from birds that themselves weren’t particularly good at racing. I have also bred the odd good birds from the odd stray that has come in including a cock that had 4 x 1st whose sire was a stray. So for me a pedigree is just a piece of paper.
I like nice calm pigeons with a bit of character. Those that look for you when you enter the loft, fight you for their perch or box. Pigeons that are medium to big in size and fit well into the hand. They should feel nice and plump on the breast but not tight or heavy. Look healthy and bright with a bloom on the feathers. Don’t know why you would want to see greasy feathers. I have never had a good pigeon go sick. Even when I had PMV the best ones showed little sign of it and got over it quickly.
Very good piece, Devo, and I agree with all those points.
This is how I sum it up. The pigeon must be athletic. It must give the impression of speed, even when just standing. It must ooze health and vitality, always alert.
As I said yesterday, I know what I like in a pigeon, but just because a pigeon is a bit bigger or smaller than I like, or has a wing that isn't ideal, that won't stop me from training it. I think most good ones look like good ones, but not all of them.
This is how I sum it up. The pigeon must be athletic. It must give the impression of speed, even when just standing. It must ooze health and vitality, always alert.
As I said yesterday, I know what I like in a pigeon, but just because a pigeon is a bit bigger or smaller than I like, or has a wing that isn't ideal, that won't stop me from training it. I think most good ones look like good ones, but not all of them.
Greetings from the land down under. 
Blessed is he who expecteth nothing, for verily, he shall not be disappointed.
Blessed is he who expecteth nothing, for verily, he shall not be disappointed.
I would say this is how these guys can select a bird, and before you know it. It wins a Nat over in Europe and it's then worth Grands. Just my thoughts.Murray wrote: ↑Fri Nov 03, 2023 12:21 am Very good piece, Devo, and I agree with all those points.
This is how I sum it up. The pigeon must be athletic. It must give the impression of speed, even when just standing. It must ooze health and vitality, always alert.
As I said yesterday, I know what I like in a pigeon, but just because a pigeon is a bit bigger or smaller than I like, or has a wing that isn't ideal, that won't stop me from training it. I think most good ones look like good ones, but not all of them.